Are organic and sustainable fashion products just a fad? Barneys is proving that it’s much more than that with its upcoming launch of organic collections by a variety of designers. Heading up that list is Stella McCartney who has designed an 18-piece resort collection, featuring novelty knits, little dresses and an oversized coat. The line will use trims and recycled fabrics from previous collections, along with using a low impact process to dye the clothes.

This collection isn’t going to come cheap to fans of Miss McCartney’s. Prices will start at $595 and go up to $1,495; however Barney’s has faith that the collection will do well. “There are limited quantities and we’re going to sell all of it,” says a confident Julie Gilhart, Barney’s fashion director. “Stella is the most perfect person to start this with.” Considering the success that she had with her lines for H&M and the Australian branch of Target (albeit more affordable), this collection WILL probably be blowing out of stores just as rapidly!
On the subject of manufacturing with alternative materials, Stella McCartney has been quoted as saying, “It’s surprising to me that people cannot get their heads around a non- leather bag or shoe. They already exist out there, but unfortunately designers feel they have to slap a leather trim or sole on them. People need to start looking at the product, and if they like it, that’s all that matters. If it has an ethical or ecological edge, that’s a huge bonus. We address these questions in every other part of our lives except fashion. Mind-sets are changing though, which is encouraging.”
Renowned for her proven success of producing organic goods, she has been especially influential in manufacturing both bags and shoes without using animal products. Her bags remain in high demand, even though they reach the same prices as those made from leather and suede by other luxury companies. She has shown that it is possible to have a socially responsible collection that continues to have loyal customers and profit.
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The Belgian designer Martin Margiela was one of the first designers to make couture items from recycled vintage garments and has become renowned for it. Since 1988, he has made inventive pieces such as a halter-top made of from antique gloves, a jacket made of black duct tape and a waistcoat from broken porcelain. Margiela’s inspiration may be the recycling of objects and fabrics, but Stella McCartney’s inspiration and motivation can be found in the work of her late mother Linda who was vegan and involved in the work of PETA for the mistreatment of animals.
Along with Barneys, other large retailers have been slowly but surely jumping on the organic product bandwagon. Nordstrom has the ’Organic Style’ section to their website which features a plethora of different products for women, men and kids. |
In London, Topshop carries the People Tree brand which is known for not only producing organic goods but also for being a fair trade pioneer. More and more organic based denim can be found in large retail chains. Levis, Earnest Sewn, Rogan’s Loomstate, Edun, 1921 and Sharkah Chakra all offer organic options to their denim lines. Taking the sustainable factor further, some of these companies are even choosing to air dry their jeans as opposed to using electricity.
Taking global awareness to a new level, the luxury knitwear company Lutz & Patmos is not only using environmentally friendly yarns but also uses artisans to hand knit their designs and donate a portion of their profits to charity. In a cardigan design collaboration with the actress Julianne Moore, they are donating $30 form the sale of each piece to the fund for tuberous sclerosis. A major part of the proceeds from at least one style per season by the company has been donated to Al Gore’s ‘Climate Project’ or other charities. Edun, the company started by Rogan Gregory in collaboration with Bono and his wife Ali is also part of this trend, using organic products and donating profits from an online auction of tees designed by Ben Affleck, Liv Tyler and Gwyneth Paltrow to fighting global poverty and AIDS.

Lutz & Patmos

Edun
Lingerie is also finding ways of using natural products in their designs. The ironically named Greenknickers has a charming collection of undies using organic fabrics as well as fair trade methods of production. More and more lingerie is being made with natural bamboo, which has been proven to be more absorbent and breathable than cotton.
Recycling, using organic cleansing products and purchasing organic based clothing has been commonplace in Europe for many years… and it looks like stores and manufacturers in the US are taking note of this ongoing trend.
Let’s hope that more American chain stores adopt the philosophy of Julie Gilhart who noted, “I feel so passionate about getting the message out. The key thing about the organic-conscious consumer is commitment. It can’t be in one season and out the next. It’s something you want to work at growing and developing from a conscience and business point of view. Everyone is looking to create more volume. (Green product) is the most satisfying part of fashion if it can be done.”
www. stellamccartney.com
www.barneys.com
http://www.designboom.com/contemporary/margiela.html
www.lutzandpatmos.com
www.edunonline.com