This season’s Tissu Premier was all about a mix of fine, lightweight and futuristic color mixtures and textures. The show presented a “subtle” season, reinforcing lighter weights in denim with contrasts done with “shadowy effects” and “coatings”.

See forums below for the full on view of the show:

Trends for summer 2009

It’s a subtle season, where everything is light and fine, where denims become featherweights and a swirl of silky satins create a musical harmony of colours. It’s a delicate season, placing the emphasis on broderie anglaise and giving pride of place to fresh shirtings. This is a refined season, where everything is dosed to perfection, although we can single out the following highlights:

      Flowers

      Luminescence

      Shadowy effects

      Coatings

Colour range for summer 09

Between nature and the city, harmony and discord, plant-based and synthetic, summer 2009 is rich in duality and unexpected combinations. Natural shades are juxtaposed with chemical colours, pales against darks…

Light

    * Poetic and futuristic, colours soar in an immaterial palette of pastels whether acid-shades, irradiated, vaporized or glossy.
    * Ecological, natural shades evoke a natural luxury with creamy, rubbery, mineral shades of foam, shoreline and clay.

 

Supernatural

    * Resolutely urban, colours are dense and sophisticated for casual chic, in planet blue and neon violet.
    * Showing a slightly ethnic side, these blues and browns in dark, satiny and metallic shades, offer shot and precious effects, with just a touch of glamour.

 

Artifice

    * Electrically charged brights and synthetics for an assuredly eclectic and fluorescent palette.
    * Soothing, landscape blues and organic greens come in a range of pigmented shades.

 

Radiance

    * Sexy and joyous, these energetic pinks vibrate as if they have received an electric shock.
    * In plain and intense blocks of colour, fusions of burnt tones, rich, warm and floral.

 

Salt & Pepper

    * Off-whites and faux blacks for a game of light and dark: matt white for high-coverage, transparent white, graphic black

Ladieswear trends  

Lunar

A woman who seeks airy and sophisticated outfits, light, delicate and poetic atmospheres. Colour palettes are softly tinted in neutral or grey tones, scarcely brightened by touches of delicate yellow or lingerie pink. Futuristic, she likes complex fabrics: coated and glazed draperies in the palest shades of greyish-beige for a masculine style, understated, smooth and fresh cotton polyamides, plunging silks and glazed cottons for a dressier style that remains totally wearable. For top to toe refinement, she wears chic casualwear, enriched with light blends in slub linen and silk, linens with delicately misted surfaces and washed or silk satins, flowing and light. Sheer and luminescent, flowing tricots are translated into intangible ultra-light jerseys or ultra-soft lingerie knits.

Radiant

Favouring a slightly relaxed couture ambiance, this woman steers clear of excess. Silky fabrics are chic and fluid, organzas enhance washed satins and revisited broderie anglaise. Shirting, preferably pink, creates a snappy look with palettes of electric blues and orange. Prints are rich and colourful: large painter-style monochrome brushstrokes, monumental floral motifs with demurely muted effects, vast Tachist prints, coloured with fresh and bright shades or bleached acid-greens and synthetic green, sparkling with a thousand different colours.

Spellbinding …

… or spellbound, it makes no difference! There’s no doubt that this is one classy lady. Colours appear sun-baked, while pigmented shades are surprisingly dense: browny-pink, ochre-orange and yellowy-green. She has a taste for masculine elegance, chic in black and white, with her precious shirting and glossy blacks, sometimes austere, free of decoration. Neutrals in shining steel-greys, satin-finish bronzes and copper shades. Imperceptible creative touches are concealed within finishing effects, with delicate subtle sheens. However, this is a lady who can also be seduced by more colourful, neck-scarf style silky aspects, large black and white “hand-painted” motifs, tribal-style monochrome jacquards, unrestrained spots and geometric African prints.
 

Casualwear Trends  

Evasion

This is a relaxed and very pale theme in grey, yellow, light green, beige and dusty white, carrying on through to colder, sometimes metallic shades, brightened up with sequins. Fabrics give pride of place to cottons, coated and glazed cotton canvas, printed and washed cotton voile, flowing cotton knits in mottled grey, light jersey, nomadic grey denims. Prints include paisley patterns and Indian motifs, butcher’s checks and naïve geometrics from the 1950s, in pale neutral shades, with touches of pink for knits, in particular.

Manifestation

This theme refuses to compromise: strong colours, a relaxed hippy and virtual style, exotic prints in acid-shades, a little bit flashy with floral motifs in kitsch tones, orange, pink, yellow, synthetic green, loud knits, fluorescent and sequinned (in a Flash Dance style). Anything goes: top-to-toe red, monochrome and synthetic green, giant prints in acid-shades, pop motifs, multicoloured comic-book drawings set in black. Denim comes in the bluest of blues, sometimes purplish-blue indigo, mustard yellow or orange. Acid yellow and orange tie-dye surfaces, natural and nonchalant fabrics, vibrant and sometimes faded colours are used to create a slightly hippy pop style.

Fusion

Very design-focused, this theme features rather dark shades.  “Hotchpotch” prints are reminiscent of slightly “boubou-style” African atmospheres. With a more oceanic feel, multicoloured exotic designs are very blurry, stippled designs very vibrant. It is an urban jungle spirit which shows off dark, blue-back denims or fine indigo violet denims and stretch polyester cottons, polyamide stretch jerseys or cotton jerseys, as well as bamboo jerseys, without forgetting linens, blends of linen and cotton or basic stretch cottons in blends of khaki. Two-tone black and white effects are interpreted in minimal tribal motifs on light cotton or in ethnic grey/white motifs, stylized and carefully-executed, in a more Nordic style.  
 

Kidswear trends  

Eco Future

A mature child with a good head on its shoulders, already committed to a responsible attitude. This is a nature-loving child, fond of plant-based tones with natural pigment-based effects, mineral shades of earth, ochre, sand, grey and aquatic highlights. Creative details are understated, light Madras checks, highly natural floral motifs, minimalist batiks, micro-macro plant-décors. Fabrics use surface effects to express themselves: rubbery linens, soft washed cottons, whether worn, bleached or relaxed, sturdy canvases for a new take on naval uniforms.

Tropic City

Dark and dense colours brighten up jungle atmospheres in a city painted with shades of clay. When nature adopts a city feel, linens become urban, denims are coloured and batiks reinterpreted. Creative details focus on stylized floral motifs going as far as a beach spirit, where slightly flashy graffiti shades bask in the Miami sun.

Tomorrow Paradise

Poetic and modern with its games of light - whether natural or artificial - this wonderfully balanced theme offers a rich palette of colours, with slightly glossy effects. Pinks are de rigueur for little girls with traditional prints, while goody-goody stripes or seersuckers are brightened up by the occasional fluorescent touch. More unisex sportswear atmospheres, with a slightly old-fashioned feel, include decorated open-work knits, faded pink prints and linens in all shades of yellow.
 

Exhibitor highlights

For each new season the exhibitors reveal a sneak preview of the keywords that have influenced their trends for Tissu Premier: their inspirations, new products and creative flair providing a foretaste of the coming season.

Exhibitor keywords

CHIC: whether the inspiration is hippy, bobo, vintage or ethnic, styles are resolutely chic

ECOLOGICAL: it’s hard to avoid bamboo or overlook the flood of earthy tones and wave of natural, cotton, silk and linen blends.

AQUATIC: with turquoise, water-green and aqua, neo-marine themes are turning to more intense shades

LIBERTY: flower motifs receive genuine recognition and co-exist happily alongside flamboyant floral flourishes

CHINTZ: the key effect for summer. Glossy or pearlescent, surfaces have been given the chintz-treatment

DISCRETE: whether crushed, cloqué or crimped, textures are on the move, going as far as to disappear into discrete slub effects.