For the Autumn/Winter 09 season, we interviewed Denim By Premier Vision’s key Laundries to get their insider knowledge on the most in-demand washes and other special surface treatments such as 3D printing, natural brushing and the ever popular resin coatings.  

Here’s a brief summary of our overall findings: 

Overall Trends: Eco-friendly processes, natural dyes, 3D print effects, vintage looks, brick washing 

Key weights: 10-12oz denim most popular, with 13-14oz denims for heavy duty distressing 

Key Washes and Finishes: Natural dyes, resin coatings 

Popular Weaves: 3 by 1 weave 

New Technologies: Digital printing and thermal heat setting for stretch memory 

Popular Novelties: Mending and patching for the vintage look, painted denim 

 
 

Freshtex garment Finishing www.Freshtex.com Ercan Erenkol

Weights 11 to 14 oz. for room to damage fabric, for sandblasting vintage look for men and women

Washes and Finishes Resin treatments, real used looks, copying of real vintage garments, multiple treatments to achieve vintage look, creases and holes, mending, patches, dirt, natural looking washes

Weaves All weaves

New Technologies New chemicals and curing ovens, lasers, new resins and curing methods for resins

Novelties Twilight line uses aggressive chemicals, eco friendly lines, and special jeans that ‘treat cellulite’ while you wear them, as well as perfumed jeans and other chemical treatments embedded in the fabric.

Customers Levi’s, Tommy Hilfiger, Lee, Wrangler, Hugo Boss, Rifle

What’s Big Going towards vintage, dry process treatments

Friul Print Loc. Casali Pividori 7 33017 Tarcento Italy 0039-0432-785-957

Weights 10 oz - 12 oz

Washing & Finishing Enzyme washing, aggressive washing and polymerizing.

Weaves 3 by 1

New Technologies Digital printing

Customers Cavalli, Diesel, Armani

What's Big Reverse printing on denim, organic dyes. 3D prints, burnt prints, disperse prints discharge printing

I.T.V. www.itvdenim.com Barbara Gnutti

Weights 10 to 11 oz is the market now along with stretch skinny styles

Washes and Finishes Special finishing for high-end clients, but only in small quantities Weaves 100% combed yearn for high quality Broken twill, or 3x1 is 70% of the collection

New Technologies Thermal fix for stretch materials, elastomer, T400 fabric by Dupont with only 3% shrinkage

Novelties Colors, 8 colors in indigo, coating for fabric with resin, contrast between wash and deep indigo. Supernovel- milk yarns- made from milk proteins creates a super soft yarn that deposits negative ions on your skin

Customers Dsquared, Diesel, Hugo Boss, Citizens for Humanity, Joe’s, Versace, Armani, exclusively premium

What’s Big Deep resin to fix 3D effects, contrast color, 2% indigo for 70s effect. Natural dyes- all indigo, black is minimal Black wefts instead of white, and the high contrast vintage look

Lim S.N.C Via Frassenara,21 35044 Montaganana Italy 0039-429-822-11

Trends Vintage washing, oil patches, Indigo colors and shotgun denim.

Weights 13 oz.

Washing & Finishing Brick washing and natural brushing that gives orange shade for a vintage wash, Sand blasting treatments

Weaves Open weaves Technologies New techniques for 3D effects.

Novelty Brick washing

Customers Einstein, D-Squared, Hugo Boss, Martin Margiela, Tectu and Replay jeans.

What's Big Eco-treatments in washing like Ecostone and bio-finishing.

Martelli Group www.martelli.it Giovanni Petrin

Weights Mid to Heavier weights

Washes and Finishes All washes and finishes are done by hand Uneven shades of blue Red and brown thread highlight patching and repaired parts for used look Clean washes with holes and spots for contrast Natural wash, natural dye

Weaves Hand-woven fabrics

Novelties White paint, repaired looks with contrast threads and hand stitching.

Customers Diesel, Replay, Cavalli, Dolce and Gabbana, Levi’s red label, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada, Lee, Wrangler

What’s Big Vintage, 3D effects, special washing process so that each pair of jeans has a unique look. Details that individualize denim, high contrast Shadow wash; because each pair is different, blues have a changing characteristic.