For Autumn/Winter 09, we got the scoop on what will be happening in denim from Denim by Premier Visions’ weavers. Overall, vintage is still very much IN. Many weavers are re-introducing old methods of weaving and using recycled denim for the look. Cotton blends are going luxe with silk, cashmere and linen blends. More of our overall findings below! 

Trends: Vintage, discharge printing, 3D printing, vegetable dyes 

Weights: 10-14 oz 

Washes and Finishes: Brighter blues, colored and transparent washes, dirty washes 

Popular Weaves: 3 by 1 

New Technologies: S gene technology, laser printing, Indigo coating and foaming techniques 

Novelty: Cotton cashmere and cotton linen blends, recycled denim, XLA fiber  

 
   
 

Berto Industria Tessile www.berto.it Anna Sartorato 

Major Trends: Remake of old denims, open-end selvage; Organic denim with natural indigo dye, certified organic; Stretch- clean denim

Weights: 4 oz to 14 oz 

Washes & Finishes: Bleached, used, unwashed 

Weaves: Twill, broken twill, tricotine 

New Technologies: New resin coatings, B-stretch (T400)

Novelties: 3 shirt weights 

Customers: Armani, Zara, Rosner, Mango, Timberland 

Best Seller: Specialist in alternative denim, such as undyed denim and denim shirts

BOSSA Denim & Sportswear 29 Marylebone Road London NW1 5JX U.K 0044-207-487-39-89

Trends: Bossa has several major trends and themes for a/w 09. Traditional Denim of 1867, authentic color with vintage washes and heavy weights. Urban Denim, harder, distressed, aggressive washing, in heavy weights. Country Attitude, softer, checks, organic cottons and dyeing. Smooth Shapes, New elegance, tailored, high waist 70's shapes China Blue, Brighter cast, red-blues and lighter weights.

Weights: 10-14 oz.

Washing and finishing: Color washing, vintage washing using sand, resin finishing.

Weaves: 1 by 1 & 3 by 1 Stretch weaves with polyester to give stretch with a nice sheen. Open weave constructions creating flame effects and in contrast to this tight weaves so no weft can be seen, weaving with black weft on indigo denim's

New Technologies: Color washing, color coating resin.

What's Big: Color washing, china blue, lighter weights and organic cottons.

Central Fabrics LTD Lower G/F, Kong Nam Industrial Building 603-609 Castle Peak Road Tsuen Wan Hong Kong 00852-2611-0989

Trends: For women, soft feel ultra lightweight fabrics. For Men, vintage washing with heavy weights.

Weights: For women's 9-11 oz, for men's 12-14 oz

Washing & Finishing: Vintage washing, aggressive washing to great dirty and oil stain look in contrast to last season's clean look.

Weaves: 3 by 1.

New Technologies: Estex, Spinning method to create softer denim.

Novelty: Using sustainable fibers, recycled polyester.

Customers: Armani Exchange, Dewing Japan, H&M, Zahra.

What's Big: Eco fibers, organic dying, stretch denim.

Collect Co. ltd www.japandenim.com Hirokazu Iga iga@japanblue.co.jp

Major Trends: Shredded, scratched, vintage, sanded, painted, and 3D finish, bright colors and colors with a worn look. Old style shuttle loom construction with selvedge. Cotton and linen blends.

Weights: 5.5 oz and up

Washes & Finishes: Blasting, brushing, 3D finish, dirt, holes

Weaves: 3x1, 2x1

New Technologies: Ultra light weight 330 g or 230 g, not quite denim but same look. Re-introducing Artisanal weaving

Novelties: Quilted denim, printed, coated. Denim that is shiny on the inside, but scratched on the outside to show shiny side.

Customers: Japanese companies currently, and doing samples for YSL, targeting Europe

Best Seller: Traditional denim with selvage done on shuttle loom

Cone Denim www.conedenim.com Kara Nicholas 

Major Trends: Vintage, reintroducing old fabrics, fly shuttle loom production for old-style selvage denim, referencing each era’s denim- twenties and thirties work fabrics, fifties rough spun character, uneven sixties look, and smoother character of seventies and eighties, G.I. blue color of the seventies 

Weights: Medium to heavy 14 oz for vintage collection 

Washes & Finishes: Modern wash, clean and vintage at once, dirt in finish

Weaves: 3x1 2x1 

New Technologies: S- Gene (patent pending) stretch technology holds shape wit multi-core yarn, core spun stretch fibers for lightweight stretch 

Novelties: Indigo canvas weave bridges the gap between casual denim and dressier clothes, uses black fill thread 

Customers: U.S. Premium market, LA retailers, history with Levi’s and European designers 

Best Seller: Stretch, some selvage styles, pure indigo selvage w901 fabric, stereo fabric 

 

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