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The world of fashion is not immune to the onslaught of economic uncertainty, and so Fall/Winter 09/10 brings about some very interesting propositions for the times. In a way, the 70s climate resonates with much magnitude again with a Nouveau Bohemian look that draws in familiar looks, as well as a heightened interest towards classic 70s sportswear dressing which brings about a new "elongated" silhouette. Dressing up becomes the norm again, with an abundance of Le Smoking tailoring and still androgynous looks in its path. Some designers take dismal mood quite seriously and interpret it into dark Goth Angel looks, but not without a touch of femininity in the form of dark transparencies and undoubtedly feminine touches. Perhaps the newest concept of all is Architectural Interest, which instead of looking upon the past do dictate the future, takes modernism to new levels with exquisite cuts that mold the body by way of intricate folds. Be sure to take a look at our additional themes as there are even more Design Themes to explore there.
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| Channeled by the strong 70s sentiment that is taking over Fall, bohemian looks are back in a wide range of styles. This is where prints live, renewing interest with updated Flora and Fauna florals, folk motifs, paisleys and painterly sponge and smudge techniques. The freshest graphic twist came in the form of florals worked into Art Nouveau motifs. The strongest color influence comes from a pumpkin palette with hints of gold. Fabrics are delicate especially for printed dresses, but we like the sense of texture created by layering lush velvets and brocades. Maxi dresses and dressing gowns follow through, topped off with luxe embroidered jackets and furs. |
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| Fall is shaping up to be a deep dark season, but with elements of romance, designers bring new meaning to the term Goth. There were definite references to witchcraft, complete with veiled heads and in some cases witch hats (quite literally), but the point here is to pile on opulence in the form of detailing and mixed fabrications from velvet to lace. Transparency creeps in from last season, often shown in sheer inserts at the neck or sleeves. Capes work into the scene as well as crinoline skirts and spidery knits. Ruffles were another key component that gives the look of all black needed dimension. |
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| There's no escaping the 70s this season! In one of the most influential looks of the season, sportswear from this decade is key in emphasizing a new elongated silhouette. The effect is achieved by mid-to-high waist wide menswear trousers coupled with tucked in blouses. Keeping in mind the lengthened shape, longer tops and blazers that fall below the hip give off the desired look. Textures also have their role, especially in pants which range from boucles and tweeds to velvets and iridescents. |
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| We're experiencing a shift in fashion that is a bit larger than simply referencing the past. Architectural Interest was delivered on a number of catwalks this season that reference any of the following techniques: origami, sculpture, and molding. Those principles of folding and working with fabric to make it take on different forms is making a huge impact. Of course, none of this would be possible if it weren't for fabrics like satin that naturally creates surface interest. This look is most easily realized in structured collar or shoulder interest but could also become a work of art utilizing panels of fabric or layers that create shape. |
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| We've spoken plenty about menswear and androgynous looks last season which still holds much relevance going forward. This season Le Smoking references tailoring in particular, and not only that, but the infamous Le Smoking suit from Yves Saint Laurent in the mid-60s. Suits and tailored tuxedo looks make a grand appearance in the form of many key items. Menswear trousers are essential from relaxed volume styles to slimmer cuts. Blouses are another essential that fit in here well and bring in a dose of feminine romance, some with tuxedo detailing while others channel high-neck Victorian frills. The tailored jacket is another must-have this season, whether placed on top of a Le Smoking look or otherwise. And speaking of jackets, blazers and coat options gain a little room this season and bring in broad-shoulder volume not seen since the 20s. |
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